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Thread: Whats Up With the Brewz! Official Homebrewing Thread

  1. #221
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    Just racked Five Magics to the secondary fermenter after two weeks in the primary. Looks and tastes very similar to Sam Adams Boston Lager.


  2. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by sourceworx View Post
    Just racked Five Magics to the secondary fermenter after two weeks in the primary. Looks and tastes very similar to Sam Adams Boston Lager.

    That looks great--very clear. What did the alcohol % come in at?

    I think from now on we will always re-rack to a secondary, the beer we bottled a few weeks back tastes outstanding, but it is very cloudy.

  3. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by JStokes View Post
    That looks great--very clear. What did the alcohol % come in at?

    I think from now on we will always re-rack to a secondary, the beer we bottled a few weeks back tastes outstanding, but it is very cloudy.
    It came in at 4.2% ABV. The original gravity was a little lower than expected. My target gravity was 1.049.

    The beer is that clear after only two weeks in the primary. I think it's the yeast that I used, which was Nottingham ale yeast. It's the second time I've used this yeast. My irish red came out awesome with it.

    I keep hearing about S-05 being such a clean fermenting ale strain, but I've had much better results with this.
    Last edited by Sourceworx; 05-19-2010 at 03:04 PM.

  4. #224
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    Finally brewed my IPA last night. I overshot the OG by a bunch. I was supposed to end up at 1.050 and ended with 1.071. Does that mean the ABV will be higher?





















    Please say yes.

  5. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaoulDuke View Post
    Finally brewed my IPA last night. I overshot the OG by a bunch. I was supposed to end up at 1.050 and ended with 1.071. Does that mean the ABV will be higher?



    Finally brewed my IPA last night. I overshot the OG by a bunch. I was supposed to end up at 1.050 and ended with 1.071. Does that mean the ABV will be higher?




    Please say yes.


    Waaay higher. 1.050 sounds low for an IPA anyways....but I'm not sure how you could overshoot by 21 points. You are using extract, right? You would either have to have a much smaller batch than originally anticiptaed, or used alot more extract than the recipe called for.

    One other thing it could be...are you doing partial boils, and did you take the reading before adding your top off water?

  6. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeJet View Post
    Waaay higher. 1.050 sounds low for an IPA anyways....but I'm not sure how you could overshoot by 21 points. You are using extract, right? You would either have to have a much smaller batch than originally anticiptaed, or used alot more extract than the recipe called for.

    One other thing it could be...are you doing partial boils, and did you take the reading before adding your top off water?
    The recipe pack had 3 kg of DME + 50 grm of hops.

    I do only one reading once I've finished the boil and topped of to 21 liter mark in the fermenter. I actually thought I'd forgotten a liter, so I added another.

    Since my readings are off compared to the recipe, I just wait until my reading is stable for 2-3 days right?

  7. #227
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    Recipe I followed

    Ingredients:

    50grm Amarillo hops
    3 x 1kg light dried malt extract
    American Ale Yeast

    Approx 21 Litres of bottled water.



    Instructions


    Sanitise all equipment and rise before using.

    Bring 6 litres of water to the boil and Dissolve the 1kg of malt extract and 30g of the hops. Boil for 40 mins then add the other 2kg of malt extract. Add a further 10g of hops and boil for a further 15 minutes.Turn off the heat and add a further 10g of the hops and allow to steep for 30 mins.

    Add 8 litres of water to a the fermenting bin then strain the boiled liquid into the water. Top up the fermenting bin to 21 Litre mark. Ideally pouring the remaining water through the strainer to extract maximum flavour from the hops. Add the yeast when the liquid has cooled to pitching temperature (15-24C), if in doubt use a thermometer to check the temperature. Take a hydrometer reading and record starting gravity. Place a clean tea towel over the top of the fermenting bin then place the lid loosley on top. Move to a suitable area in the house and leave until fermentation is complete. Bottle and wait approx 1 - 2 weeks to clear. As with all beers, it will continue to improve with age.


    OG: 1.050


    FG: 1.011
    I was not sure at all of the bolded part. The timing just isn't clear. I added 2kg of DME + 10 G of hops and let it boil for just 15 minutes. I was expecting to let it boil for more than that.

  8. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaoulDuke View Post
    Recipe I followed



    I was not sure at all of the bolded part. The timing just isn't clear. I added 2kg of DME + 10 G of hops and let it boil for just 15 minutes. I was expecting to let it boil for more than that.
    Holding back some of the extract until the until the end of the boil is for color. Extract tends to make beer on the darker side of what it should be, so saving some for the end prevents that. The ending hops are for flavor and aroma...not much bitterness will be extracted.

    Now let me go figure out these measurement conversions...

  9. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaoulDuke View Post
    The recipe pack had 3 kg of DME + 50 grm of hops.

    I do only one reading once I've finished the boil and topped of to 21 liter mark in the fermenter. I actually thought I'd forgotten a liter, so I added another.

    Since my readings are off compared to the recipe, I just wait until my reading is stable for 2-3 days right?
    I come up with a OG of around 1.054. I'm stumped how it could be so much higher. That kind of difference might be seen on an all grain, where efficiency in the mash will affect the OG, but extract already has all of the sugars converted. In that amount of extract, there just shouldn't be enough sugar to give you that high of an OG.

    The only other thing I can think of, is your hydrometer is out of whack.

  10. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeJet View Post
    Holding back some of the extract until the until the end of the boil is for color. Extract tends to make beer on the darker side of what it should be, so saving some for the end prevents that. The ending hops are for flavor and aroma...not much bitterness will be extracted.

    Now let me go figure out these measurement conversions...
    From what I've read the late addition of extract is more than just for color.
    You get much poorer hop utilization when hops are boiled in a more concentrated wort. So if you're not boiling the full amount of wort (which is common with extract brewers) then it's recommended to add only about 20% of the extract at the beginning of the boil, then add the remaining extract in the final 15-20 minutes.

    By the way I tried my first partial mash last week. I screwed it up big time. I tried maintaining the mash temp on my stove, which turned out to be virtually impossible to do. My OG was off by 12 points. I'm letting it ferment but I think it's likely that this is going to end up getting poured down the drain.

    I bought a 3 gallon cooler to mash in next time.

  11. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeJet View Post
    I come up with a OG of around 1.054. I'm stumped how it could be so much higher. That kind of difference might be seen on an all grain, where efficiency in the mash will affect the OG, but extract already has all of the sugars converted. In that amount of extract, there just shouldn't be enough sugar to give you that high of an OG.

    The only other thing I can think of, is your hydrometer is out of whack.



  12. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by sourceworx View Post
    From what I've read the late addition of extract is more than just for color.
    You get much poorer hop utilization when hops are boiled in a more concentrated wort. So if you're not boiling the full amount of wort (which is common with extract brewers) then it's recommended to add only about 20% of the extract at the beginning of the boil, then add the remaining extract in the final 15-20 minutes.

    By the way I tried my first partial mash last week. I screwed it up big time. I tried maintaining the mash temp on my stove, which turned out to be virtually impossible to do. My OG was off by 12 points. I'm letting it ferment but I think it's likely that this is going to end up getting poured down the drain.

    I bought a 3 gallon cooler to mash in next time.
    Yes, that's true too. Good hint.

    Did you use your cooler yet? If not, perhaps take it back and just get the 5 gallon (or ten). If you move on to partial mashes, your next step is obviously all-grain...so you may as well get the investment over with, and not have a useless 3-gallon hanging around You can still do the partial in the 5 gallon.

    At 5 gallons, you won't be able to do an all-grain IPA (well, a IPA on the low end you could do) or any other big beers, but you can do the majority of beers. They're good up to about an OG of around 1.060.

    Yes, maintaining on a stove is hard. I tried it once. Went straight to the cooler after that debacle

  13. #233
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    Temp plays a role in the OG reading doesn't it?

    I put the boil in an ice bath, then pitched it in the fermenter, then topped it off to 21 liter, then measured it without looking at the T. MY guess is I was between 35-40 C (95-104F).

  14. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaoulDuke View Post


    That is one big beer.

    I don't doubt that your hydrometer reads that (obviously now that I'm looking at it ), I just can't figure out HOW? That amount of DME shouldn't give you that high of a OG.

    You didn't accidently drop a pound of table sugar in there, did ya?

  15. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaoulDuke View Post
    Temp plays a role in the OG reading doesn't it?

    I put the boil in an ice bath, then pitched it in the fermenter, then topped it off to 21 liter, then measured it without looking at the T. MY guess is I was between 35-40 C (95-104F).
    Yes it does...but now you have an even bigger beer. Like 1.076.

  16. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeJet View Post
    Yes it does...but now you have an even bigger beer. Like 1.076.
    Oh...then wait and see.


  17. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeJet View Post
    Yes, that's true too. Good hint.

    Did you use your cooler yet? If not, perhaps take it back and just get the 5 gallon (or ten). If you move on to partial mashes, your next step is obviously all-grain...so you may as well get the investment over with, and not have a useless 3-gallon hanging around You can still do the partial in the 5 gallon.

    At 5 gallons, you won't be able to do an all-grain IPA (well, a IPA on the low end you could do) or any other big beers, but you can do the majority of beers. They're good up to about an OG of around 1.060.

    Yes, maintaining on a stove is hard. I tried it once. Went straight to the cooler after that debacle
    I keep hearing that. Several people have told me "if you're going to mash half of it, why not mash it all?"

    I've read that if you don't use the cooler's full capacity (if I did a partial mash in a 5 gallon cooler) the air in all that extra head space will bring the mash temp down. How do you get around that?

    And no I haven't used the cooler yet.

  18. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrangeJet View Post
    Yes it does...but now you have an even bigger beer. Like 1.076.
    Why doesn't he dry-hop the sh!t out of it? He pretty much has the base for an imperial IPA.

  19. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by sourceworx View Post
    I keep hearing that. Several people have told me "if you're going to mash half of it, why not mash it all?"

    I've read that if you don't use the cooler's full capacity (if I did a partial mash in a 5 gallon cooler) the air in all that extra head space will bring the mash temp down. How do you get around that?

    And no I haven't used the cooler yet.
    Do you use brewing software? If so, you can probably adjust the thermal mass in your calculations for strike temp. I have an Igloo 5 gallon cooler and average about .5 to 1 gallon of headspace. I keep my adjustment at .5 everytime, and hit temps almost like clockwork, and that Igloo holds temps like a champ.
    Last edited by OrangeJet; 05-28-2010 at 09:15 AM.

  20. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by sourceworx View Post
    Why doesn't he dry-hop the sh!t out of it? He pretty much has the base for an imperial IPA.
    Yup. Dry hopping sounds like a good idea.

    Raoul, one more question...did you use any steeping grains? They won't affect the OG, but I'm curious about that color on that amount of light DME...

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